I should point out, before I make my negative comments about this wine, that I spend a lot of my time acting as an unpaid trade envoy of The Wine Society, boldly coercing my friends, family and clients to become members. I have opened many hundreds of bottles from the Society, and have been truly delighted with every single bloody one of them.
So. The
Jean-Marc Burgaud. Why did I buy it? And was it a stab in the dark? No -- I love the better wines of Beaujolais (the
crus, if you must), especially the heftier styles of Moulin-a-Vent and Morgon (map
here). I harbour especially devotional feelings for the
Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, a truly beautiful wine, worth every penny of its £20 price. If you've never bought any, may I suggest that you stop reading this -- honestly, go on: open another window in your browser -- and buy a case of it immediately? You will be very, very happy if you do this. (For some reason (tiny production volumes?) it's not sold by the Society.)
It might be fair to say that when I bought the Burgaud I was optimistically hoping for a bit of Foillard-lite: that wonderful combination of uncharacteristic (for gamay) spiciness and pure fruit. I drank my first gobful of the decanted Burgaud at a rather nippy 12°, so I certainly wasn't readying myself for a wash of Californian richness, but what was on offer was austerity itself: unwaveringly narrow, tannic tartness. A wee while later (God bless you if you're still reading, truly), the wine had warmed up a bit, but that straight-as-a-die tightness was still all that was on offer. Pfft.
24 hours later: has the asperity of the initial experience yielded to something I wouldn't "have to work at". No, sirs and madams, no.
As for the notes accompanying this wine on the Society website? Well. Allow me to state here, in a gentlemanly -- but forthright -- manner that the man responsible for describing this wine as "fabulously rich and fruity" is a scoundrel, a blackguard and a wayward vagrant.
I have yet to decide what to do with the second bottle -- maybe I'll have it replaced; but maybe I'll keep it until the end of its window, in 2017, to see if something else evolves in time...
It's striking that it's taken me several years of dedicated buying and drinking from the Society to, finally, encounter a wine I wasn't enamoured of. My love of the Society remains undimmed. The new list arrived in the post yesterday, with this legend printed at the back:
2011 proved an excellent year for the Society, thanks to you, its members, who continue to give strong support. Good trading allows us, as a non-profit-maximising co-operative, to thank you in the most practical way with price reductions on more than 300 wines in this New Year List. These are not short-term headline-grabbing discounts but modest, sensible price reductions for the benefit of as many members as possible.
I shall drink, once more, to the health of the Society's noble causes.